Rachel Gartshore

31 August 2006

Nazca Lines



After an 8 hour bus journey, we, Robbie and I, arrive in Nazca. Robbie is an Australian who is also travelling alone, who, after 10 seconds, I managed to convince that he wanted to see the Nazca lines!!

The 30 minute flight over the lines, was a very sickening experience. Tipping to the left so the people on the left side can a figure, and then back around and tipping to the right so the people on the right can see.... after 15 figures everyone's stomach was quite churned. Luckily we'd had a day with no wind...

28 August 2006

Lonely in Lima

Back in Lima, only this time I'm all on my own, and missing Emma very much. I've managed to spend five days doing not much sightseeing, rather going to lots of night clubs, late nights / early mornings and the odd hangover (which aren't as much fun without Emma!) Went to see "Pirates of the Caribbean", played some pool, and, been to McDonalds... Met some really nice people, so I'm staying another day to have a good night out with a group of Irish girls who turned up at the hostel today, before heading to south Nazca.

21 August 2006

Tiwanaku


Just a day trip from La Paz, we visited the empire of the Tiwanaku - living for almost 1000 years before the Incas. Apparently, the Incas used the techniques of the Tiwanaku to build their temples. Still, it's pretty impressive, intricate carvings on huge pieces of rock... otherwise known as funky men statues!

La Paz and the "world´s most dangerous road"


So Emma finally talked me into taking the trip to the "world´s most dangerous road" - from La Paz to Coroico, 64km long road starting at over 4000m and dropping, steadily, to a more normal altitude - ¿1500m? All this, not in a bus, no, on a bike. Yes, on a mountain bike... thanks Em! And on this day, it´s been raining, the stones are slippy, and we´re told that it´s easier to control a bike with a little speed...

Now, those of you who have seen me on a ski slope will know I´m a bit of an adrenaline junky... so - with the chain coming off only once, only two near-slips of the rear wheel, and a few (too many) slightly out of control moments where another sheer drop around another blind-corner comes a little too close to my front wheel - we arrive at Coroico - muddy...

After a very, very relaxing following day, in the most beautiful setting you can imagine - we also had to imagine it, as it was misty and we could only just see out of the door - finished another book, and geared ourselves up for the journey back - on a bus... driven by a 20 year old with no front teeth... 10m visibility, it was a rather harrowing experience - with a coach coming downhill stopping only one foot in front of us around yet another blind corner - I was very, very, very relieved to arrive back in La Paz and step onto tarmac! Seeing all those vertical drops from the comfort of the minibus.... and we cycled down it! Madness...

14 August 2006

Copacabana... coldest spot South of Peru

We made it across the Peruvian-Bolivian border unscathed - on the shores of Lake Titicaca, the southern side, the little seaside resort is very picturesque... but really REALLY cold! From here we head out onto the Lake again, this time to Isla del Sol. The boat drops us off at the north of the island at the main temple and pre-inca living quarters, shrine and big rock that apparently has a puma face in it! This rock is where the sun was made...

A three hour walk takes us to the south of the island, and with a beautiful view over the lake at sunset (very romantic), Emma and I head to a restaurant for the smallest two course meal eaten so far... after another meal in another restaurant, still slightly hungry we head for bed, leaving the ghosts of the town to find their own amusement.

11 August 2006

Floating Islands... really!


Venturing out from the mainland of Peru at Puno, off we set on a boat to the "floating" islands of Uros.... yes, they´re made of reeds! Populated by a small number of Peruvians, but on this day - more tourists than you would think would fit on a small body of floating reeds! The corrogated iron houses in the background gives away their normal habitation choices...

Further onto Lake Titicaca are the "real" islands. Still within Peruvian borders we dock, and after a short walk up the hill we find ourselves in a tiny main square, and a photo gallery.... Just a day trip, so - back onto Peruvian mainland in preparation for our journey across the border... into Bolivia... Copacabana here we come!

09 August 2006

Condors at Colca Canyon

Just a few hours on the bus to the Colca Canyon - until recently the deepest canyon in the world, but as you know: mountains grow, so it´s not the deepest any more! Still quite impressive though, so we walked to the bottom, crossed over and stayed over night in the (relative) warmth of a mountain side hostel (with an actual toilet, basin and everything!). The next day was a long trek up a bit, along a bit, down a bit, cross back over and up to the baths - yes, an oasis in the canyon... a quick swim and a little sun bathing in preparation for the long slog up to the top - three hours of steep, dusty, rocky incline later we´re at the top - just in time to see the sun disappear over the other side - and the temperature to plumet!

After a nice meal in a hostel, a good nights sleep and a warm shower it´s up at 06:30 for breakfast, an hours bus ride just in time to see the condors rising from the depths of the canyon... soaring around us, enjoying the rising warm air before going off to hunt.

We´ve now moved onto Puno, 7 uneventful hours bus ride away from Arequipa, found (after some searching) somewhere to stay - with hot water, AND at tv... although the cord is too short to reach the plug socket!

04 August 2006

The White City

After a week recovering from Machu Picchu in Cusco, taking in the Inka sites, the local bars and nightlife etc... we´ve arrived in Arequipa. It´s a beautiful city, all made of white stone, huge archways and the most amazing main square I´ve seen so far (unfortunately the pigeons have also found it).

We´ve visited Juanita, the Ice Princess: a 14 year old Inka girl, sacrificed to the gods and buried in the snow at the top of the mountains of Arequipa for over 500 years - and beautifully preserved by the ice at approx 6000m - currently kept in a glass box at -20C. Also wandered around the Santa Catalina Convent, a tiny citadel in the city! The nuns lived in little apartments with bedroom, living room, praying room, kitchen and private patio area - each! at least the important ones did...